Finding the right cowboy boot size is arguably the most important aspect of your purchase. Boots that don't fit properly will never be comfortable, no matter how much you try to break them in. Yet sizing cowboy boots presents unique challenges: they fit differently than regular shoes, sizing varies between brands, and the traditional fit includes characteristics that feel unusual to first-time wearers. This comprehensive guide will help you navigate these challenges and find boots that fit perfectly from day one.
Why Cowboy Boot Sizing Is Different
If you've ever tried on cowboy boots and thought they felt strange, you're not alone. Cowboy boots are constructed differently than sneakers, dress shoes, or even other types of boots. Understanding these differences is essential for finding the right fit.
First, cowboy boots have no laces. They rely entirely on the snugness of the instep (the top of your foot) to stay securely on your feet. This means the instep area must fit firmly—sometimes more firmly than you might expect from other footwear.
Second, cowboy boots feature a heel slip when new. This surprises many first-time buyers, but approximately 1cm of heel movement in a new pair is completely normal and expected. As you wear the boots, the leather sole moulds to your foot shape, and this slippage decreases significantly.
Third, cowboy boot sizes often run differently than your regular shoe size. Many people wear a half to full size smaller in cowboy boots. This isn't universal, however—some brands run large, others small, and width can vary significantly.
A properly fitting cowboy boot should feel snug across the instep, allow slight heel slip when new, provide room for your toes to move without touching the front, and position the ball of your foot at the widest part of the sole.
How to Measure Your Feet at Home
Accurate measurements are your starting point for finding the right size, especially when buying online. Here's how to measure your feet properly at home.
What You'll Need
- Two sheets of paper (larger than your feet)
- A pen or pencil
- A ruler or measuring tape
- The socks you plan to wear with your boots
Step-by-Step Measuring Process
Step 1: Time it right. Measure your feet at the end of the day when they're at their largest. Feet swell throughout the day, and boots sized to your morning feet may feel tight by evening.
Step 2: Prepare your paper. Tape a sheet of paper to a hard floor (not carpet). Put on the socks you'll wear with your boots.
Step 3: Trace your foot. Stand on the paper with your full weight on the foot being measured. Have someone trace around your foot while keeping the pen vertical. If you're alone, carefully trace it yourself, keeping as much weight on the foot as possible.
Step 4: Measure length. Mark the longest point of your foot (usually the tip of your big toe or second toe) and the back of your heel. Measure the distance between these points in centimetres.
Step 5: Measure width. Mark the widest points on each side of your foot (usually at the ball of the foot). Measure the distance between these points.
Step 6: Repeat for the other foot. Most people have slightly different sized feet. Always fit to the larger foot.
- Always measure both feet—they're often different sizes
- Measure at the end of the day when feet are largest
- Wear the socks you'll wear with your boots
- Stand with full weight on the foot being measured
- Keep measurements handy when comparing to brand size charts
Understanding Width Sizes
Width is just as important as length, yet it's often overlooked. Cowboy boots typically come in several width options, though not all brands offer the full range.
B width is narrow and best suited for those with slender feet. This width is more common in women's boots.
D width is considered standard or medium for men's boots. This is the most commonly stocked width.
EE width (sometimes marked as 2E) is wide, suitable for those with broader feet. This width is becoming increasingly common as brands recognise diverse foot shapes.
EEE width (or 3E) is extra wide and may require seeking out specialty retailers or brands known for wide sizing.
If you consistently find that shoes feel tight across the ball of your foot or your feet hang over the edges of your shoe insoles, you likely need a wider width. Conversely, if shoes feel loose despite correct length, a narrower width may serve you better.
Brand-Specific Sizing Considerations
Different cowboy boot manufacturers have their own lasts (the forms used to shape boots), resulting in different fits even in the same labelled size. Here's general guidance for popular brands:
Ariat tends to run true to size for most wearers. Their boots are known for comfortable fits with good arch support. Many find their regular shoe size works well.
Justin Boots often runs slightly large. Consider trying a half size down from your regular shoe size. Their boots tend to have roomier toe boxes.
Tony Lama typically runs true to size with a slightly narrower fit. Those with wider feet may need to size up in width.
Lucchese is known for narrower lasts. If you're between sizes, size up. Those with wide feet may find their boots challenging without going up in width.
Always read customer reviews specifically mentioning fit when buying online. Comments like "runs small," "wide toe box," or "narrow through the instep" provide valuable real-world sizing information beyond manufacturer charts.
The In-Store Fitting Process
If you have the opportunity to try boots in person, follow this process for accurate fitting:
Slide your foot in. Cowboy boots can be challenging to put on initially. Use the pull straps or finger holes, and don't be afraid to use some force. If a boot slides on too easily, it's probably too big.
Check the instep. Once your foot is fully in, the boot should feel snug across the top of your foot. This snugness is what holds the boot on—it should be firm but not painful.
Assess heel fit. Walk around and note the heel slip. Some movement is normal and expected in new boots. Excessive slipping (more than 1-1.5cm) suggests the boot is too large.
Find the ball position. The widest part of your foot (the ball) should align with the widest part of the boot's sole. This alignment is crucial for comfortable walking.
Check toe room. You should be able to wiggle your toes freely. Even in pointed-toe styles, your toes shouldn't touch the front of the boot.
When Boots Don't Fit Right
Some fit issues can be resolved, while others indicate wrong sizing:
Tight instep: This often loosens as the leather breaks in. If painfully tight, however, the boot may be too narrow.
Excessive heel slip: Slight slip is normal; excessive slip won't improve with break-in. Try a smaller size or narrower width.
Toes touching front: The boot is too short. Size up.
Pain at ball of foot: Wrong width or incorrect ball-to-sole alignment. Try different size or width.
Don't expect boots to stretch significantly during break-in. While leather does soften and mould somewhat, boots that are genuinely too small will never become comfortable. It's better to have slightly generous sizing than boots that pinch.
Final Thoughts on Sizing
Finding your perfect cowboy boot size may require some trial and error, especially if you're new to western footwear. Don't be discouraged if your first pair isn't perfect—the learning process helps you understand what works for your feet.
When buying online, choose retailers with good return policies that allow you to try multiple sizes. Many experienced boot wearers order two sizes to try at home, returning whichever doesn't fit. This approach, while requiring more upfront outlay, often leads to the best final fit.
Remember that a properly fitting cowboy boot becomes more comfortable over time, not less. If you've sized correctly, after 20-30 hours of wear, your boots should feel like an extension of your feet—supportive, comfortable, and ready to carry you through whatever your day brings.